![]() They're 3/4" ply with 3/4"x1 3/4" oak stiffeners (or whatever they're called) front and back. Bow them up slightly before fastening, and they will be fine.Īw, gwan! These shelves are adjustable, 48" wide and 12" deep. I would use solid hard maple for the shelves, and put a 1/4 plywood back on, gluing and stapling through the back. With the center support, it will be like having shorter shelves without the center plywood divider.Īny shelf over 34", we laminate 2 layers of 3/4 ply and use 1 1/2" shelf nosing. The other option is to have a stile in the middle of the span and put shelf supports on the stile and the backs of the cabinet, effectively cutting the shelf in two. My limit for 3/4" plywood shelves is 32", and I think that is pushing it for heavier objects. I don't normally build shelves longer than 36" and at that, I build them thicker to carry heavier loads. If the customer wants them that long, then you need to build the shelves thicker by laminating two layers. I wouldn't hesitate to put in a middle partition and cut the shelves in half. No question the shelves will bow at that span. ![]() What would be the best solution - to divide the shelf in half and put a dadoed vertical divider between each shelf to give the middle some support? What is the cutoff for width of a shelf before it sags in the middle? ![]() Am I going to run into problems with the shelves bowing in the future? I will be using 3/4 birch plywood and either hemlock or maple face frame. The two end bookcases will be approximately 45 inches wide by 14 inches deep. I have a customer that would like a large built-in entertainment center/bookcase. ![]()
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